Sang Kee Fresh Fish Soup Bee Hoon at Sheung Wan, Hong Kong Island (上環生記鮮魚汤米线)

“Eat what the locals eat.”

We booked our hotel in the Tin Hau area, next to Causeway Bay, known for its abundance of delicious street food. Upon checking in, with famished stomachs, we opted not to explore street food in Tin Hau. Instead, we headed to Sheung Wan for the popular noodle soup, conveniently located and allowing me to shop for soy sauce from Kowloon Soy Co. and some street shopping. Without hesitation, we quickly set off by MTR.

生記鮮魚汤米線 (Sang Kee)

During the weekday lunch hour, the tiny shop in Sheung Wan was inundated with a local lunchtime crowd. Customers eagerly waited for their turn, facilitated by a simple paper ticket queuing system. A hand-scribbled ticket number was sufficient to manage the hungry clientele. Upon arrival, approach the front counter, state your headcount, receive the paper with your designated number, and head outside. Avoid crowding at the front counter, serving as both cashier and the only entrance.

We secured seats by sharing a table with two other diners within 10 minutes, faster than expected! The fish soup, featured on a TVB food show before our trip, showcased the meticulous cooking process. The chefs fried whole fishes before simmering them in a pot with other ingredients like fish bones. This effort resulted in a milky appearance in the soup, not from additives but from the fish meat infused into the base.

Despite its milky color, the soup tasted light, almost insipid, with a touch of natural sweetness likely derived from the prolonged boiling of fish bones. I found it quite satisfying, especially as it made me feel less guilty about indulging. :D

Ordering tips: In Hong Kong, rice vermicelli, known as Mai Seen (米線) in Cantonese, is commonly referred to as Bee Hoon. The restaurant serves thick bee hoon, and each large bowl is priced at around HK$28 (S$5), with additional sides available on the menu.

炸魚片頭

If you’re wondering about Zha Yu Pian Tou (炸魚片頭), it’s essentially fried fish cake, known as 炸鱼餅 in Singapore. We indulged in a bowl each of fish soup Mai Seen with fried fish cake and Soon Tuk fried minced fish puffs (顺德魚腐). The unique texture of the fish puffs stood out for me – tasty, soft, and tender inside. It seemed like one of their best-selling sides. Ah, I’m already starting to miss it!

If you don’t have a big appetite, consider requesting a smaller portion of Mai Seen, as they serve very generous portions. Alternatively, if you visit after 2 pm, they offer mini servings to cater to those looking for a tea break option.

上環禧利街10号地下（No. 10 Ground/F, Hillier Street, Sheung Wan, HK）
Opening hour: 11am – 8pm
Direction: From Sheung Wan MTR, head west on Des Voeux Rd C toward Hillier St. Turn left at Hillier St. About 2 minutes walk.

Side Info: Not in the mood for fish soup? Walk down the street, and you’ll find the renowned beef noodle shop just a few steps away.