“Eat what the locals eat.”
We booked our hotel accommodation in Tin Hau area (next to Causeway Bay) where plenty of yummy street food were found. Right after checking in, we were eager to find some food to fill our famished stomachs. However, we did not hang around Tin Hau area for street food. I thought the popular noodle soup would be just right for us, for its convenient location in Sheung Wan, where I needed also to shop for my soy sauce (from Kowloon Soy Co.), and some nice and cheap boots from a streetside stall there. Without further delay, we set off quickly, by MTR.
生記鮮魚汤米線 (Sang Kee)
Since it was weekday noon hour, this tiny shop was swamped by lunchtime crowd, mainly the locals. Many customers were seen waiting eagerly for their turn to get seated. No queueing needed, the shop operates a simple paper ticket queuing system. Though just a hand scribbled ticket number, it was good enough to handle those hungry customers. Upon arrival, just approach the front counter, inform your headcount, take the paper with your designated number and head outside. Don’t crowd at the front counter as it was the cashier as well as the only door in & out.
We managed to get our seats sharing with other two diners within 10 minutes. Faster than expected! :)
So, what so special about the fish soup? In fact, I came across this TVB food show that introduced the entire cooking process of this fish soup, before our trip here. I was impressed by the quality ingredients and effort the shop owners put in for its tedious cooking (where the chef would fried the whole fishes before puting into large simmering pot combining other ingredients such as fish bones), just to feed their customers.
If you noticed, the soup appeared kinda milky. It wasn’t an effect from the addition of evaporated milk or any colouring, but the fish meat that cooked and emerged into the soup base.
Despite its milky colour, the soup actually tasted really light to almost insipid, with a touch of natural sweetness probably yielded from the looking boiling of fish bones. I thought it was good though. I personally liked it this way as it made me feel much less guilty from eating too much nowadays. :D
Some ordering tips:
In Hong Kong, rice vermicelli aka Bee Hoon, is called Mai Seen (米線) in Cantonese. And yes, they served thick bee hoon.
Each large bowl cost about HK$28 (S$5), along with the sides of your choice on the menu.
If you wondered what is Zha Yu Pian Tou (炸魚片頭), it is actually fried fish cake (In Singapore, known it as 炸鱼餅).
We treated ourselves a bowl each of fish soup Mai Seen with fried fish cake, and Soon Tuk fried minced fish puffs (顺德魚腐). I liked the distinctive texture of the fish puffs. The puff was really tasty, soft and tender inside. I believed this was one of their best selling sides. Hmm… I kinda miss it now! :)
If you do not have a big appetite, please request less Mai Seen. They served very generous portion! Alternatively, get there after 2pm, option for mini servings would be available to cater for tea break.
上環禧利街10号地下（No. 10 Ground/F, Hillier Street, Sheung Wan, HK）
Opening hour: 11am – 8pm
Direction: From Sheung Wan MTR, head west on Des Voeux Rd C toward Hillier St. Turn left at Hillier St. About 2 minutes walk.
Side Info: Not fancy fish soup? Head down the street and you will find yourself at the famous beef noodle, just a few shops away.